Now and again, watch companies will come out with re-editions or reissues of some of their classic timepieces.
You might have noticed that in recent years, we have been seeing a lot more re-editions than usual.
The reason for this probably had to do with the fact that the vintage watch market has been growing lately, and collecting and wearing vintage timepieces is something of a trend.
So, watch brands are looking to capitalize on that, and are putting more reissues on the market.
Sometimes re-editions feature a modern twist, but usually, they try and mimic the original editions almost exactly.
Regardless, these vintage watches were popular when they were released decades ago, and remained so over the intervening years.
So, that is a lot of market data that tells companies that these particular designs sell well, and should continue to over the years ahead.
Investing in those designs with reissues makes a lot of sense, and is a win-win for watch companies and collectors alike.
It also offers vintage watchmakers a way to carry forth their legacies into the future.
Table of Contents
Why Purchase a Vintage Watch Re-Edition?
Here are a few reasons to consider adding vintage watch reissues to your collection:
- These faithful reproductions are beautiful and fascinating. Anyone with an interest in vintage watches should be intrigued by reissues and what goes into creating them.
- It might cost less to buy a re-edition than an original. Sometimes, you might have your eye on a particular vintage watch which is simply unattainable for reasons of rarity or price. It might be easier and more affordable to invest in a reissue.
- Your watch will feature vintage charm, but new parts. At a glance, most people probably will not know you are wearing a re-edition rather than an original, but instead of decades-old parts (or replacement parts), you will have a watch made of entirely new parts. So, it will be functioning at peak condition.
What Makes a Successful Re-Edition?
- Accuracy. A nice re-edition captures the look and feel of the original, featuring the same design elements.
- Vintage watches were made robustly with meticulous attention to detail. You should find the same level of quality in a modern reissue, even if some materials have been changed.
- If a new version of a watch is noticeably and deliberately different from the original (more “inspired by” than a replica per se), the changes update the style or improve the functionality of the watch in an appealing fashion while still capturing the spirit of the original watch or watches that inspired it.
What to Avoid
The most common divergence is a difference in case size, but this might not be much of an annoyance if all other elements are faithfully reproduced.
Indeed, whether you consider this to be a serious problem or not ultimately comes down to your personal tastes.
An unacceptable difference in case size for one person might be acceptable for another.
Most Interesting Re-Editions of Vintage Watches
Now that you know a bit more about modern re-editions of vintage watches, let’s take a look at some of the most impressive examples.
Heuer Autavia 2017 – Re-Edition of the Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3
First on our list is the Heritage Caliber Heuer 02, more commonly referred to as the TAG Heuer Autavia 2017.
This vintage watch reissue was actually created in response to popular demand. TAG Heuer was impressed by the increasing interest in their vintage watches among collectors over recent years. To cater to demand, they came up with the idea of holding the “Autavia Cup.”
During the Cup, 50,000 people cast votes on which vintage watch the company would release as a re-edition. Voters settled on the 1966 Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3.
The Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3 was the signature watch of Formula 1 racer Jochen Rindt. The association between the watch and the man was so strong that people began calling the watch the “Rindt.”
The TAG Heuer Autavia 2017 is pretty close to the original. Indeed, if you are looking at the dials of a vintage Rindt and the modern reissue side-by-side, you likely will not be able to tell them apart. They are both black and feature the same three white sub-dials. The hands and markers are unchanged.
Not surprisingly, however, the cases are different. The original version of the watch came in a 39mm case. But the 2017 re-edition is in a 42mm case. You will also notice that the notched bezel on the new version of the watch is thicker than that on the 1966 version.
How big a deal these differences are depends on your preferences. But considering how close the dial is to the original, the reissue is arguably accurate enough in other respects for one to overlook these differences.
There is another significant difference between the modern reissue and the original watch as well, and that is what you will find under the hood. The Valjoux 72 movement from the 1966 watch has been replaced in the re-edition with the Heuer-02 automatic movement, which you can glimpse through the caseback. It is impossible to complain about the quality of the new movement, which has a maximum power reserve of 80 hours.
If you want to purchase the re-edition, you can do so for $5,150-$5,300, depending on whether you go with the leather strap or the beads-of-rice bracelet.
Is this expensive? Sure. But it is a far cry from the over $200,000 price tags that some vintage Autavias are now commanding.
That being said, if you hunt around, you can find various vintage Autavia watches selling for significantly less. But it is still common for them to cost in excess of $5,000, and often in excess of $10,000.
So, that makes the 2017 re-edition of this watch a very good deal, one that can bring its classic good looks into the budget of many more collectors.
Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph – Re-Edition of the Tissot Navigator
Next up, we have the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph, which draws inspiration from the vintage Tissot Navigator.
Unlike the TAG Heuer Autavia 2017, you could not possibly mistake the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph for the vintage Tissot Navigator at a glance. It features the same basic design elements, but in an entirely different configuration.
Indeed, the intent was not to create an exact replica of the original watch, but simply to pay homage to its design with a modern rendition.
The original watch featured a white or black panda dial with two sub-dials, one at six o’clock, and the other at 9 o’clock.
The new version replaces this asymmetrical design with one that features three sub-dials, one at six o’clock, one at 9 o’clock, and one at 3 o’clock.
In almost all other respects, however, the designs of the watch dials are very close. The hollow markers for the hours are the same, and the tachymeter has been faithfully reproduced. The logo and the text saying “Tissot” below it look alike.
The text “Swiss Made” appears at the bottom of each with one word on either side of the six o’clock sub-dial. But there is no longer text reading “Automatic Navigator” on the new watch, being as the three o ‘clock sub-dial is located where that text used to be. The hands are almost identical.
What about differences? Both watches include a calfskin leather strap, but the racing holes are larger and less rounded on the original. Not surprisingly, the case size is also bigger on the reissue—43mm versus the original 39mm for the vintage watch.
Through the clear case back, you can see the Valjoux 7753 automatic movement that powers the modern re-edition.
If exact replicas are your thing, you probably won’t get into the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph. But if you enjoy faithful tributes to vintage racing watches, you should appreciate this timepiece. The original Navigator seems hard to come by, as well, but the Heritage watch can be purchased new for around $2,600. You can also pick one up used for less.
2020 Aquastar Deepstar Chronograph – Re-Edition of 1960s Aquastar Deepstar Chronograph
If you are in the market for a very close replica of a vintage diving watch, the Aquastar Deepstar Chronograph may satisfy your collector’s itch.
Not familiar with Aquastar? You wouldn’t be alone in that, even as a vintage watch enthusiast. Professional diver Frederick Robert established Aquastar as a Swiss specialty brand in 1962. Today, the name is relatively obscure.
The company explains, “Aquastar marked the first time in the Swiss watchmaking world where a company was dedicated to producing professional-grade watches and timing instruments in a single market segment.”
In 2020, Aquastar decoded to reissue its most famous model, the Deepstar chronograph. You will discover that the dial of the modern watch appears identical to that of the original watch. Both feature large stainless steel markers at noon, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock, dots for the remaining hours, and a chronograph sub-dial at 3 o’clock. The chronograph feature works underwater, and there is an engraved decompression scale. You can read a very complete article about this reissue at Monochrome Watches.
What is inside? Aquastar writes, “The 2020 Deepstar retains all proportions of the original Deepstar from the 60s while relying on high end Swiss Manufacture automatic Chronograph movement instead and the manual wind Valjoux 23.”
The reissue was available to pre-order at $2,790 with dials in 4 different versions: Steel Grey, Blue Ray, Greenwich, and Vintage Black. At least to start, the company will be doing a limited edition run. Every watch will be numbered, and there will be just 1,200 to begin.
It is rare to see such a precise replica of a vintage watch. If you are a stickler for details and you love dive watches, the 2020 Aquastar Deepstar is a must-have chronograph.
Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition
Looking for a vintage aviation watch re-edition that is even more faithful to the original than the 2020 Deepstar?
Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition could easily be mistaken for the original watch released at the end of the decade if you did not take a look at what is inside (the Breitling B09 movement, with a power reserve of 70 hours).
Unlike most reissues, the stainless steel case of the Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition is the same size of that on the original watch.
The black dial is also the same in every detail. It includes the non-AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) logo, the three sub-dials (also in black), the slide-rule mobile scale, and the slide-rule fixed-scale dial rings. To say there is a lot going on with the distinctive dial is an understatement. Nevertheless, the simplicity of the color scheme along with the easy legibility of the writing keeps it from feeling cluttered.
There are just a few changes to note. As previously mentioned, there is an updated movement powering the watch. Also, Super-LumiNova was added to the hands, and the water resistance is 30M, which is higher than it was on the original version of the watch.
Prices for the re-edition have ranged between $8,600 up to almost $12,000, so this replica will cost you a pretty penny. In fact, you can actually sometimes find the original watch for sale for a lower price, so it is not necessarily a deal over an authentic vintage time page.
Nonetheless, it is a very reasonable price considering the quality of the craftsmanship as well as the new movement powering the re-edition. Plus, it is a limited edition, and therefore very collectible in its own right, with every piece numbered individually. If you’re interested in this watch and would like to learn more, check out this article and its comment section at Hodinkee.
Hamilton Intramatic Panda Dial – Re-Edition of the 1969 Chrono-matic
Another quality re-edition to check out is the Hamilton Intramatic Panda Dial. Describing the watch, the company writes, “The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a modern reworking of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look. Combining authentic 60s appeal with the exclusive H-31 automatic movement, its distinctive panda dial is a guaranteed eye-catcher.”
The new watch is in a much larger case than the original, measuring 40mm. But the design of the dial is very similar, with a matching sub-dial at 3 o’clock. There is a sub-dial at 9 o’clock as well, but that one has changed. Also, the old version of the watch said “Hamilton Automatic” on top and “chrono-matic” on the bottom. The new version just says “Hamilton” on top and “Automatic” on the bottom.
It is worth noting that the dial is not actually white. It is more of a very light beige. The sub-dial hands, on the other hand, are actually white. So, they “pop” more against not only the black backdrops of the sub-dials themselves, but also the neighboring backdrop of the dial.
All told, it is a very nice re-edition, available for CHF 2,150.00, which is around $2,380 USD.
The 1968 version of this watch is not easy to come by, nor are other versions from that timeframe. Moreover, if you do find one, it will probably cost you thousands of dollars more than the reissue. So, the re-edition offers great value, even if the case is a bit on the hefty side.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931
As the name makes clear, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 is the company’s re-edition of the 1931 version of the famous Reverso watch.
That year, polo players in the British Army who were on tour in India requested a super-durable watch they could wear while playing.
Why is it called the “Reverso?” Jaeger-LeCoultre explains, “Its dial smoothly concealed by reversing the case, to reveal a back that fully protects the face from possible mallet strokes.”
If what you like in a watch is sleek, elegant, minimalist design, it is hard to beat the gorgeous Art Deco aesthetic of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931.
Measuring 46mm long and 27.5mm wide, this rectangular watch is just 7.2mm thick. So, it really earns the name “Ultra Thin.” Like the original watch, it is easily reversible.
The dial, like the steel case, is rectangular. Markers for the hours (including a double set at noon) stand out against the black backdrop. Aside from a the name “Reverso” and a simple pattern around the perimeter, there is nothing else on the dial to distract from the baton hands. The case above and below the dial includes a set of horizontal grooves, adding a bit more Art Deco flair to the design.
You probably have noticed how popular clear sapphire case backs are on re-editions of vintage timepieces. It is understandable that watchmakers would want to show off the new movements powering their reissues, and it must have been tempting for Jaeger-LeCoultre to want to showcase the Caliber 822 in this re-edition.
But instead, the company went with brushed steel for the back of the case, with the company’s name and “Reverso” at the top, and details on the watch at the bottom. Such a decision makes more logical sense than a sapphire case back, considering the original version of this watch was specifically developed to serve as a durable sports watch. The re-edition should be able to as well, and this one could.
In terms of collecting, you will discover that there have been many iterations in the Reverso line of watches over the years, and pricing for vintage timepieces in this line can vary significantly. But many of them tend to cost in excess of $10,000.
You can purchase a new Reverso Tribute watch for $8,750 as of the time of this writing, so that is a very good value. No Art Deco watch enthusiast could not ask for more from a vintage watch re-edition.
Orient World Dial – Re-Edition of the 1969 “Map Dial” World Diver
The Orient World Diver from 1969 is among the company’s most well-known watches. The series actually originated two years previously in 1967, but it was the 1969 version with the caliber 4694 movement that became iconic.
What this watch is known for is it eye-catching dial, which includes a map displaying continents and time zones. Not many other watch designs can claim to be so colorful—this one features light and dark blue, white, pink, yellow and orange. Moreover, the map isn’t just stylish, but also functional since you can use it to read times.
As you might expect, the original version of this watch is highly collectible, but also challenging to dig up. And if you do, you will find that it is quite expensive.
But now, you have the option of shopping for the Orient World Dial re-edition. Orient just announced the reissue in February 2021. There are 4 different versions of the reissue. The one that features the map dial as you see it in the 1969 version of the watch is the RN-AA0E04Y.
The remaining three watches produced as part of this re-edition series are AA0E01S, RN-AA0E02E, and RN-AA0E03L, each of them with a different color dial: ivory, green, or blue. They all feature the map as well, but as sketched outlines without the blocks of color that the original map featured. The bezel and crowns of the ivory edition of the reissue are gold-plated.
Additional features include water resistance up to 200 meters, a 20mm solid steel bracelet, and the caliber F6922 movement. At 43.5mm wide, the case is bigger than the one the vintage version of the iconic watch featured, but not too much so.
You can pick up one of the re-editions for under $500, which is a steal, especially in light of how hard it is to find the original version of the watch. Eran from Orient Place did a comprehensive review of this re-edition, that is a great read.
Omega Seamaster 300 – Re-Edition of the 1957 Seamaster 300
The Omega Seamaster line was launched in 1948, by which point the company was already celebrating its hundredth anniversary. The company describes the Seamaster line’s success by saying, “A blend of battle-proven technology and beautiful design, they would go on to conquer the watchmaking world.”
The company’s experience producing watches for the British Ministry of Defence during WWII gave them the expertise to create this iconic civilian line.
The 1957 Seamaster 300 came out the same year as the first Speedmaster as well as the Railmaster. So, Omega was by then conquering the watchmaking world across multiple fronts.
There have actually been two re-editions of this particular watch. The first was in 2014, and the latest is from 2021.
The version that came out in 2014 was high in quality, and is still worth considering. But it does not entirely capture the vintage feel of the original. Its look has been updated a bit more than some collectors would have liked.
The latest reissue of the watch is far closer in appearance to the 1957 version. In fact, at a glance, it is hard to tell the two apart.
As far as the dial goes, it features the same open Arabic numerals for 12, 3, 6 and 9, and the same markers for the remaining hours. The distinctive style of the hour and minute hands is similar, and the overall minimalism of the dial has been preserved. There is now Super-LumiNova in the seconds hand.
The case for the 2021 Omega Seamaster 300 re-edition has a diameter of 41mm, and a thickness of only 13.85mm. The two-part, coin-edge bezel also hearkens back to the original watch.
Inside the watch, you will find the METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 8912.
If you liked the idea of purchasing a reissue of the Omega Seamaster 300, but were not satisfied with the 2014 addition, you may find that the 2021 version is just what you were looking for.
Vintage Seamasters can run anywhere from $2,000 up to more than $15,000. The latest re-edition starts at $6,150.
Vulcain Nautical Seventies – Re-Edition of the 1970s Vulcain Cricket-Nautical S 2322 B Diver
If you are into the bold watch designs of the 1970s, you will definitely see the appeal in the vibrant Vulcain Nautical Seventies, which is a reissue of the original Vulcain Cricket-Nautical S 2322 B Diver.
A couple of things made the original version of this watch stand out on the watch market of the 70s. The first was its distinctive design, and the second was the presence of an alarm. Indeed, this is the company that invented wristwatch alarms.
Introduced in 2013, the Vulcain Nautical Seventies reissue included two editions:
- The orange version, which is most like the original.
- The blue version that celebrates that year’s Vulcain Trophy yachting regatta.
The blue version was produced in a lower quantity, so it costs more than the orange version. In all other respects, the two versions of the re-edition are exactly alike.
The 42mm steel case of the re-edition is a big one, but it is not an increase over the original size; big watches were a common thing in the 70s. It is waterproof up to a depth of 300m.
The elaborate, information-rich dial is just like it was on the original watch, and features a decompression table along with a rotating dive bezel.
The hands are similar between the modern and original editions as well. You will notice each sports a fourth hand in red with a white tip. This hand is required when you set the alarm. The triple case back ensures that you will hear it when it goes off, even if you are underwater.
It is the Vulcain in-house movement that produces the noise with one barrel, while another barrel powers the timekeeping function. It is not so different from the one that the original watch featured decades ago, though it has been brought up-to-date to offer the best in modern functionality.
We have seen vintage versions of the Vulcain Cricket-Nautical S 2322 B Diver sell for anywhere from $4,000 up to $15,000. The Vulcain Nautical Seventies re-edition sells for around $5,000.
Summary
You have now had a chance to appreciate some beautiful re-editions of vintage watches. Any one of these watches can make a wonderful addition to your collection, whether you purchase the re-edition or the original.
Do you own a reissue of a vintage watch? Please share your favorite ones in the comment area below.
Vintage Watch Inc
Dennis is the founder and editor of Vintage Watch Inc. Passionate about Soviet and Japanese vintage timepieces and a finance professional by day, he proudly wears a Seiko Pogue with his suit.
The re-editions are a demonstration of how poor in ideas the manufacturers are today and buying one means not loving vintage but being out of time.
I think a worthy edition to this list are both the Longines Heritage divers and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five (the latter was actually mistaken for the vintage version by a watch wholesaler at a watch auction I attended!)